In some ways, Yogyakarta reminds me a lot of Charlotte, NC. This isn't really a concerted attempt to make that connection in an academic or truly measurable way, but I'd like to share one of the most significant similarities. Legend has is that at one time, Charlotte had more churches per square mile than any city in America. Yogyakarta seemingly has just as many mosques - and Saturday we visited seven of them.
In Indonesia, the first of the Five Principles of the State (the Pancasila) is "Belief in the one True God". Indonesia has 6 governmentally "approved" religions, and as long as you believe in God through one of the "approved" religions, you're good to go. Kind of reminds me of what could happen in Charlotte, NC. We're cool with other religions, but if you don't believe in God, in general, we're not real sure what to do with you! I don't mean to make blanket statement generalizations (really), but that's my experience (it doesn't hurt that right before I left, the debacle about the billboard sponsored by the NC Association of Atheists, or similar, was going on - remember that?) I just know that more often than not, it is my faith that has carried me through rough times and I have no idea what a person with no faith would do when things get tough (I don't think I'll read Christopher Hitchens book to find out, but I trust that he believes what he says and I'm cool with that)
In Charlotte, NC, we have hundreds of churches - we have other places of worship, but churches predominate. Here in Yogyakarta it's the reverse - there are hundreds of mosques, but less churches and other houses of worship.
Saturday we went out to visit 7 mosques of historical or architectural significance. I respectfully wore long sleeves, long pants and brought along a scarf to cover my head, as did our Indonesian director of activities, Ingrid. She and I don't wear typically wear pants or long sleeves - and we don't cover our heads regularly, so I wasn't sure how we'd fare. I didn't get as hot or feel as bothered as I thought I would. The weather was with us and a pleasant breeze accompanied us on our way. A particularly wonderful thing I noticed is the place in the community each mosque held, the part of the social fabric that was created by the presence. There were schools, men, women, families, children, professionals and laborers - they were gracious to us at each place. We were allowed to enter, to experience and to see. For that I'm grateful.
The first mosque we visited is associated with the Sultan's realm. Yogyakarta (Jogja) is one of three special districts in Indonesia. I think there are only 3; Jakarta and Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam in northern Sumatra are the other two. The governor of Jogja is the Sultan and while Indonesia is a democracy, traditionally the Sultan holds power in Jogja. This is yet another way that Jogja, a city of art, culture and education, is indeed special.
There are four mosques at the "corners" of the boundaries of the Sultan's kingdom (Sultanate) that were built in the 1700's (I think).
Within the walls of the complex, children from the school were playing...they lost their ball into the water, a teacher retrieved it and all was well.
Of course I had to go adventure into the surrounding neighborhood. Luckily for me I got to enter through another original gate (I had forgotten to take a picture of the first one)
The next mosque we visited was by far the most colorful of any we'd see today - it was very sweet, very pretty and very unique.
I could've cropped this picture, but I really wanted to show the relationship to the road. It isn't set apart as a "site to see" - it is a place of worship with unique characteristics...and completely accessible.
One thing that I noticed at each place is the place one goes to prepare to pray. You have to rinse your face, ears, hands and arms up to elbows, and feet prior to praying. Some people pray at each of the established times, too - that's 5 times a day (and a lot of dedication).
I wasn't sure why we were going to the 3rd mosque on the agenda - it is big and beautiful - architecturally significant, but still - it kind of reminded me of the big church across from the government center in Charlotte...sterile and imposing rather than sweet and warm. Needless to say, my initial impression was wrong...it's probably wrong about the church in Charlotte, too, but that's another story.
This mosque was beautiful and felt so peaceful - Ingrid and I very much enjoyed our repose inside
The visit to this mosque provided the introduction into what would be the overwhelming understanding I'd have of the day: I was not only visiting historical and architectural sites, but I was entering into places of worship. The opportunity to reflect, to pray and to commune with the God I know through Jesus Christ did not escape me. For that, I am grateful.
From the new and architecturally significant to the oldest and favorite mosque of the day, we traveled to Kote Gede - the former capital of the region now known for this beautiful place, as well as handcrafted silver. Notice the Hindu influence of the entrance into the complex...
There was something special about this place - we all loved it and enjoyed being there...
The mosque here was pleasant and beautiful, but the grounds and the overall sense of the area held the intrigue, I think...maybe it was the avatar tree with the cat who conversed with me...
...or the sweet street just beyond....
...but I know that I need to go back.
We iced the cake of our morning with a delicious lunch at Milas, a restaurant that serves organic and vegetarian food AND does non-profit charitable work in the community. Talk about feeling good after you eat! :-)
After our delicious lunch we went to the mosque at the Kraton, the Sultan's Palace. You'll notice decorative similarities between it and the palace.
It was really neat to see so many taking an afternoon repose here.
From there we went to The Green Mosque (please forgive that I wasn't much for recording the proper names for these beautiful places - I was more concerned with being present and seizing the moment of experiencing them)
This is a beautiful mosque that was teeming with people (even though I didn't capture many) who had come to pray...and children who had come to play :-)
This woman is heading to the place to prepare herself for prayer
These kids were playing :-)
We ended our day at the mosque on the campus of Universitas Gadjah Mada (UGM). The oldest University in Indonesia. I had been told previously that directly following Indonesia's independence from Dutch rule, the Sultan decided that Indonesians needed access to a quality education. He donated the land upon which UGM is built. It is a huge campus, to say the least. The mosque is beautiful and there were many people visiting. (You're probably wondering how I was able to capture so many people-less pictures if there were so many people, but I guess you've just discovered one of my many talents :-)
I guess you can tell that mosques play an important role in the community - similar to that of churches in Charlotte, NC, as I've said. What may not be as obvious is how kindly we were received at each place and how each place provided a peace that promoted prayer.
There are more pictures on Facebook - please check them out if you'd like. I'm thankful to be here - to learn, to grow, to experience new things and of course, to share. If you have any questions or comments, please leave them below or send me an email. For many of us, these photos are the first intimate glimpses of a mosque that we've had - I hope that I have successfully shared their significance and shown how special, warm and reverent they are.
Since I have been in Indonesia (almost a month and a half), I have been treated with kindness, warmth, good humor and compassion. I have an even more diverse body of friends who care about me and about whom I care. For that I'm thankful - thank you for sharing this experience with me.
